Making of double walled piece 2

I chose to work on simple shape, to keep the metalworking practise as easy as possible. Still, I wouldn't have believed how hard it can be to solder two walls together, handmade accurately.

It took me four rounds to solder the base on to the two walls. I had to consider, that heating the metal would create hot air, which needs to escape. I drilled a little hole for the air to escape, on to the base sheet, just between the two walls. This way I ensured not damaging the metal. If the hot air would get trapped between the metal walls, it would retract the metal, when the air is cooling down. Serious damage would appear on the surface. Also, if I would re-heat the vessel without an air hole, the vessel would explode, because the hot air would not be able to escape. 

Silver solder pellets placed along the inside and outside seam. Rouge and mineral oil brushed on to the existing solder line. 

The piece after heating. Natural oxidising appearing on the surface. The metal became so hot, that the oxidising has turned into ash that just flakes off.

One can see, that some of the solder pellets hasn't melted inside the vessel.   

Here, I have marked the spots where solder is needed to fill the gaps on the seam. 

Aaargh, not easy! Due to uneven heating, the solder has melted all over the place, not on the seam, where it should have.  Plenty of sanding is now needed...

Making of double walled piece

One of the pieces that I have designed is a vessel that has two walls, creating a chunky look, almost as if the metal walls are that thick. This piece has been technically the most difficult one. The piece has put my metalsmithing skills on test! Even my tutor said that I had picked relatively difficult object to make, considering my experience and skills so far.

First, I needed to make two rings. The thickness between the rings is 10mm, same as on the other vessels.

Here, the rings are already soldered, then carefully placed on sheet of metal. I needed to make sure the rings were round, and that the distance between the rings were even all way round.  

Re-soldering. It is quite difficult to solder two walls at the same time, making sure the heat is spread evenly and that the silver solder melts properly. There is always a risk of overheating the metal or the solder. Also, every time you re-solder, you may weaken the already existing one. I used rouge compound and mineral oil to protect the existing solder joints from heat.  

Once the solder seam is clean, I pierced the inside and outside of the sheet to create the top rim for the vessel. Next step is to solder the base.

More about milling plywood on lathe

As I have shown on previous post, I had adjusted the copper rim around the plywood and placed it on the lathe. As I started to mill the copper to meet the plywood, I was getting worried about the lines the milling creates on metal. But for my relief, I was able to sand the lines down. I was not planning to mill metal,as I make the rings by hand, and they should fit the plywood body without having to mill the surface. I don't want my work to look like  they are deep drawn or spun by machine -You associate that kind of linear lines with industrial processes. My work is all about handcrafts. And yes, I am using lathe, therefore, I have learned a skill in order to operate the tool.  

Even though, I find it wonderful to work on lathe, I don't want machine to overtake the handcrafting. I want the user/viewer to appreciate the making of the object. Big part of my project is to celebrate craftsmanship and handmade quality. 

Problem solving 

This image shows how I have made a copper ring, then milled plywood part to fit tightly inside.

After that, I have placed more plywood on to p and bottom of the ring of copper and wood inside it.


In the end, the glued wooden part on the top did not align with the chuck, so when I milled it, it didn't level with rest of the body. I ended up cutting off the top wood part and managed to save the rest. 

Here, back in action. I have now successfully milled the wood and metal to level. The inside of the vessel is done too. The thickness of the wall is 10mm.  

I ended up comprehending a totally different looking vessel that I had in mind in first place. I am actually pleased that I made the error on the lathe. Due that, I discovered visually and technically more attractively designed object. 

Here, I am fitting a rim, it will become lid for the vessel. 

Sometimes, from making mistake and to realise new better outcome, is meant to happen. I may not be able to see all the possibilities when conceptualising on drawing board. Most of the decisions happens along the making process.  Also, the more I use a tool, the more it can give to me, and the more I am capable of visualising endless designing possibilities.   

Working on plywood

Layers of roughly cut plywood glued together. Ready to be milled

I have learned, that when milling, the chuck (the base disc that is attached to the lathe) and the rest of the milled body has to align or otherwise the work won't level. 

Milling in process

The metal did not meet the wood exactly, as my cylinder is handmade and the plywood part is machine operated. I had to take the whole piece back on the lathe to even it out. 

Custom made hand stamp

It took several weeks to get my stamp delivered. I have learned, that when dealing with manufacturers, anything can happen along the way! It is good to keep calling them to make sure they have received your emails, and/or they have understood what you want. 

I was extremely pleased when I received the stamp, it is beautifully made (well I was better be happy for the price I paid for it..)

My logo. Engraved on to hardened steel bar.

Practising on stamping. I realised, that I wasn't able to hammer by hand, so I set the stamp on fly-press, to get the force needed to create even stamp.

As the stamp is made to be used on straight surface, I am not able to use it on the side of my convex vessels.
After pondering for while, I came up with an idea of stamping the logo on little copper coins, and then inserting the coin in to the vessel's base or lid.

Trying to figure out the size of the coin.

Stamp proposal

I wanted to have a logo on my objects. I looked into metal stamps, and found M. Shaw Engraving ltd. from Sheffield. They custom make stamps.

I designed a very simple logo, a castle (my surname Linna means castle in Finnish) that has my initials inside. The size of the stamp is 12mm.

Inspirational logo from Swedish Skultuna.

Enlarged design

The proposal for the stamp I sent to the lovely craftsman.

Making cylinders 2

milled mdf jig, for forming the metal strip.
Right tools - Often, one has to make his or hers own in order to create accurate/true work.  

Getting into cylinder making!

Next step after forming the ring, is to solder the base. As this image clearly shows, I haven't been very economical with the material.

Flux and solder pellets are placed along the joints, seam. Metal is heated with torch until the hard silver solder melts and finds its way to join the metals together.